Sunday, December 26, 2010

Kristmas in Kandahar

Christmas snuck up on me this year. Normally one is bombarded by Christmas messages in the weeks leading up to the 25th: TV specials, advertising, lights on houses. This year I was bombarded, but not by Christmas, by the insurgents (though very far away and absolutely no danger to me - just to be clear). So it was the 21st and I was on my way to the Canadian contingent Christmas party before it hit me that Christmas was only four days away. Once at the party our Social Committee tried their best to get everyone into the spirit of the season. We also were allowed our "2 beers per man perhaps" for this party, though in a fit of misguided solidarity with my dry American subordinates, I opted for the orange Fanta instead of the Molson Canadian. There were draws for gifts (I won a Keiths baseball cap), and Christmas song themed charades (the poor Major who had to come up with a way to mime "Feliz Navidad" won the day, just out of sympathy). The biggest boost from this party was just getting all the Canadians together in one place as we all work in different places throughout the headquarters and on varied schedules, so just seeing everyone and wishing them a Merry Christmas was worthwhile.

The next "Christmas" event was our lunch for the Afghans on 23 December. Faithful readers of this blog will know that during Eid our Afghan colleagues threw a little party for us. Now it was our turn to return the favour. It is very important to reciprocate hospitality in Afghan culture. We arranged for one of our interpreters to pick up food in Kandahar (it was much cheaper than buying it in the local bazaar) and some of the staff contributed goodies sent from home. I kicked in a panettone that was sent to me by the headquarters I work for in Toronto - odd, but very popular as it turned out. The Afghans were very appreciative and there were no leftovers, particularly among the sweets - though no-one could adequately explain why a Toblerone is shaped that way.

Finally we had our Christmas lunch on the 25th. Now Saturday is not a day off in Afghanistan, and this Saturday, despite it being Christmas, was no different. We had to go to work in the morning and had a normal routine until lunch. The NATO staff then departed and went back to FOB Lindsay, where we live, to have lunch. The kitchen staff go all out for these events and the mess hall was decorated with artfully carved melons, and gigantic faux cakes.


The senior officers, myself included, volunteered to serve the troops, as that is the tradition in the military. I took my place on the steam line and dished out prime rib, ham, stuffing, mashed potatoes, macaroni and cheese and sweet potatoes as well as three kinds of gravy. Needless to say no-one went away hungry! There were all manner of desserts as well. It was great fun to serve the food under the watchful eye of the kitchen staff who hailed from India, Bosnia and China.

After a big meal the rest of the day was free time so most retired to their rooms to Skype their loved ones back home. The good thing about being 9.5 hours ahead of Eastern Canada is that our Christmas was over before it even began back home. Some of the soldiers were able to watch their kids open presents over the web on Christmas morning. I watched a Christmas movie and called home.

Then, around 2000 hrs (8:00 pm) as I was checking e-mail, the rocket warning siren on KAF sounded. It was almost immediately followed by the sound of a rocket impact (another rocket impact was heard tonight as I write this). As I believe I have explained before the rockets launched at KAF are extremely inaccurate with the insurgent theory being that KAF is very big and the chance of hitting something important is worth the risk. My theory is they were after Don Cherry.

So Christmas was memorable and unique this year. The season crept up on me and was over in a flash. Today, Boxing Day, was just another working day here. I hope your Christmas, where ever you are, was as unique and interesting as mine - but with less rockets.
Feliz Navidad




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